WebFor the design of harbors, offshore terminals, floating platforms, etc. it is of great importance that the long waves in nature are correctly represented in the physical model, because of the dominant influence of the long waves on mooring forces and slow-drift oscillations. … WebFew studies have measured wave speeds in the field and there is currently no available theory that accurately predicts wave speed on natural beaches (Postacchini and Brocchini, 2014).Field data suggest that wave speeds in the surf zone calculated on a wave-by-wave basis show a stronger correlation with the depth under the crest of the wave than with …
Infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups - Cambridge Core
WebLarge, long-lived vortices are abundant in the atmospheres of the giant planets. Some of them survive a few orders of magnitude longer than the dispersive linear Rossby wave packets, e.g. the Great Red Spot (GRS), Little Red Spot (LRS) and White Ovals (WO) of Jupiter, Big Bertha, Brown Spot and Anne's Spot of Saturn, the Great Dark Spot (GDS) … Web20 de nov. de 2024 · Depth-integrated mathematical models for simulating waves and currents from deep to shallow water are presented. These models are derived from … patti connors today
Internal solitons in laboratory experiments: Comparison with ...
Web29 de nov. de 2011 · In the regime of weakly transverse long waves, given long-wave initial data, we prove that a non-dimensionalized water wave system in an infinite strip under the influence of gravity and surface tension on the upper free interface has a unique solution on [ $${0, T/ \\varepsilon}$$ ] for some $${\\varepsilon}$$ independent of constant T. We … WebWAVE) that is responsible for the short wave generation and propagation in the nearshore areas. The two-way coupling between both modules allowed to take the e ect of waves on currents and vice-versa into account (Deltares, 2011). The Delft3D system integrates a three-dimensional (3D) approach that, in contrast to the two-dimensional (2D) Web1 de set. de 2013 · A laboratory method to generate tsunami-like long waves has been developed. • Single sinusoidal waves (15–120 s), prolonged solitary and N-waves were tested with this new method. • A realistic wave train from a numerical model was also successfully generated. • The wave maker consists of pipe pumps under a loop … patti cotter